This material reminds me of those Magic Eye pictures.
This pattern is Burda 7949 - view B. It looks a bit boring on the pattern but I quite liked the design of separate bodice, midsection and skirt and was sure that using eye-strain inducing fabric would liven it up!
This is cotton with a bit of stretch, from Tessutis of course, and it ticks all my favourite boxes (flowery, Japanese, cotton) and the print is more of a cubist rendition of the floral genre. It also smells a bit funny (I don't think it's me - it's the print's paint!), which might be why I don't wear it a lot, although that's a shame because it's one of the nicer dresses I've ever made.
There is a lot going on in this pattern. It has the high collar, the teardrop at the front, the handmade button loop, and each section is cut a different way on the fabric (bodice - crosswise grain; midsection - lengthwise grain; skirt - bias). The midsection acts as a yoke for the skirt and the skirt is gored with four panels.
|Looks slightly wonky on the mannequin|
One interesting point is that it is nearly entirely devoid of facings, apart from the teardrop and the collar. Not even around the armholes. I'm a bit of a pedant and prefer to line dresses, but lining this one would be a bit of a pain with the yoke and the teardrop...easier just to choose material that doesn't need lining. The skirt hangs very nicely without lining too, so I was happy to let this one go through to the keeper.
It did mean, of course, that I had to bind the seams.
I had a big problem getting the point of the yoke at the front to work. Maybe my brain was having an off week (or month) but I just could not visualise how to sew the damn thing! The instructions are not that instructive - "Baste bodice right sides together with upper edge of skirt, matching side seams. Stitch." ??!? But...what about the big V intersection? How do you navigate it? Help...to this day I'm sure I did something wrong or missed a step. In any event I showed mum and she worked it out, thus avoiding a brain explosion.
The collar is fastened with a handmade button loop. This was pretty easy to do - I googled how to do it and made it out of cream embroidery thread. After attaching the loop and the button to the dress I had a blonde moment trying to figure out how to undo the button because the loop is too small for the button to pass through. How was I going to get the damn thing on and off?!
For about 10 seconds I berated (a) myself for being a dill and (b) the pattern for not pointing that out...then I remembered that it has a zip at the back. D'oh!
So there you have it. I really like the pattern, and would encourage you to give it a go using fabric that has really obvious lines to make the most of the lovely bodice/yoke/bias cut skirt. If you do give it a go and work out how the V in the yoke is meant to be sewn please tell me!!